Queyras snowshoeing - a new venue

It's always exciting going to a new mountain range, discovering new walks, poring over different maps, trying to work out new vistas.
The Queyras, situated in southeast France, right up against the Italian frontier, certainly didn't disappoint.

We were lucky to have a good 20cms of fresh snowfall last weekend, beautiful light snow that fell without wind. Then a light top up on Wednesday too. In between it was sunny and cold, just like it should be in the Alps in winter.

The walks took us up through pine and larch forest to cols and summits at around 2300m where we were greeted with fabulous views, notably of the nearby Ecrins massif and the mighty Monte Viso just over the border in Italy, famous for being visible from so many of the 4000m peaks in the Alps.

As usual the photos tell it better than I can.

Photo Joan Morley

I'll be back with another group in the Queyras in 2 weeks - let's hope we enjoy the same fabulous conditions. This will definitely be a regular on my snowshoeing programme. 

Winter starts with fab weather and perfect conditions

The Alps have had plenty of early snowfall this season so conditions for my first week snowshoeing were excellent.
We were in the Val Clarée, near Briançon in the southern French Alps based at the tiny and very snowy hamlet of Névache.

 

The weather was remarkably warm for early January - Névache has a reputation for being one of the coldest alpine villages in France - but this week even out of the sun we weren't really cold.

 

We did 5 days of good walks which took us to many fine vantage points, climbing up above the tree-line on either side of the beautiful Val Clarée. A rest day mid-week allowed for muscles to reccover as well as a visit to the fascinating fortress town of Briançon.

Fun and enthusiastic people made this week a really inspiring start to the season for me.

 

Photo: Geoff Armstrong





Happy Christmas!

Sunset on the Dentelles de Montmirail, Provence

Whilst life in Provence continues to be mellow and very pleasant, winter has arrived in the Alps and it's going to be a good one.
There is an awful lot of snow, in some places too much at the moment, notably in the northern Alps, where the avalanche risk is very high.
Further south the recent snowfall has been more moderate, and this, added to the good base already established over the last few weeks, has given excellent conditions in the Val Clarée and Queyras regions, two of the best venues for snowshoeing.

So we dusted off the snowshoes and took ourselves over to the Queyras to check out some routes for this winter. This is a region that has long been on my list of places to visit, and it certainly didn't disappoint.

 



Wild shady valleys open up to high cwms and tempting cols, often with accessible peaks close by. There was loads of snow, most of it untracked at this time of year, and it was VERY cold!

It was a real pleasure to get out in these perfect winter conditions and rediscover the joys of snowshoeing. The views were magnificent, all new vistas that I will need to discover little by little.

Meanwhile, we mustn't forget it's Christmas! My friend and photo magician Bel Youngson has persuaded Zig, the Trekking in the Alps Mascot, to dress accordingly and she's come up with a lovely Christmas shot.

HAPPY CHRISTMAS!





Photo Bel Youngson

 

Autumn in the Drôme

 

It's now 2 weeks since we migrated south to the Drôme and it's been wonderful to discover autumn in this region. We've not been here so early before and so we haven't seen the trees so colourful and the sun so bright.

I went to renew my acquaintance with the vultures of Remuzat the other day and certainly wasn't disappointed. They are such amazing birds I never tire of watching them soar over the cliffs. This time they kept me waiting a good half hour but just as I was about to leave a posse of about 30 arrived and gave me a fabulous display!

 

Last weekend though saw really heavy rain which led to some impressive waterfalls. The porous limestone here must be riddled with tunnels where the water pours down.

 

 

Time to get out in the garden now - November is apparently prime planting time down here, contrary to everything I have known before.





It's snowing!

After a poor start, October has turned into a lovely month with lots of sunshine and evenn hot temps here in the Alps.
Until today things were looking like this

 

But as of today it's snowing and is forecast to continue for the next 24 hours, right down to valley level. So the winter is definitely on its way and it's time to start dusting off the raquettes and the skis and getting out the thermals! From January onwards I have lots of Snowshoe trips programmed - check out my website for details.

Of course the clocks are also going back which gives us the very shortlived pleasure of an extra hour asleep (never to be sniffed at I feel) but then months of long dark evenings. Here in the Alps (and down in Provence) those evenings are often not really so bad, often beginning with beautiful sunsets then clear nights and sparkling snow (well, hopefully not in Provence actually). But I do have memories of interminable greyness in the UK - maybe my memories are a bit screwed?   

Anyway looking out the window it looks a bit like this now

So it's time to hunker down in front of the woodstove and read a good book.

Before I sign off though, more thoughts on the Shewee that I introduced in my last post. Whilst carrying a very heavy sack last week it occured to me that this would be very useful when you need to go and don't want to take off your sack - and this does happen when you're hurrying along the trail or your sack is actually too heavy to pick up alone. Squatting down with 25kgs on your back is really not a Good Thing for those knees. So there's another reason to get one girls!

 

 



Back from holidays, snowshoeing and a new and essential trekking device

Snowshoeing - the very best way to get out in the hills in winter. Sign up now for next winter!

I don't usually blog my holidays but since it's the in between season here in the Alps there are no treks to blog so let's have some holidays news (including at the end of this blog some very important news about using a SheWee in the wilds, which I was able to do on this trip) - and some news about what's coming up for next winter. Please do read to the end.

The western USA was the venue for Trekking in the Alps to enjoy some great hiking and climbing, around Utah, Idaho and the California Sierra.

The western USA is extremely dry this year, partly the result of a very poor winter (no snow) and then hotter than usual conditions so far this autumn. Fires were burning in some parts of Idaho and it was sad to see much of the vegetation looking drier and more brittle than normal - some of the famous fall colours won't be happening this year due to lack of water.
Good for us to have no rainy days for our trip of course but I would gladly send them some of the rain falling in Vallorcine today.
Here's a few more shots

But now the party's over, it's time to think about serious matters! Who's up for snowshoeing this winter? Loads of trips on offer, take a look at my website http://www.trekkinginthealps.com/ or email me hilaryalp@gmail.com for details. Levels range from a lovely reasonably relaxed week in early January to full on racing around strenuous stuff in March. Something for everyone and everyone needs to sign up! Come on, you know you want to! Don't wait too long........

Beautiful walks with fabulous scenery, clear cold air, sunshine....what more could you want in the depths of winter?

Important news for my female clients
Finally I want to tell you about my experience using a device called a SheWee. This is for my female clients really, and I know there are lots of you who'll be interested. These devices have been around for a while and sometimes people do ask me if I have used one. Well finally I have. Now what's it all about?
Well it looks like this (didn't think we needed a shot of it in action!)

It enables us to wee without having to squat down and drop our pants. Now why would we want to do this? Well think about it - freezing cold winds, horizontal hail, crowded trails, vast snowfields with no trees or rocks in sight, bad knees....the reasons go on and on. It takes a bit of practise but once you get the hang of it it's amazingly convenient. I think it's going to find its place this winter snowshoeing. I am hoping to be able to write my name in then snow....sorry, just kidding, forget I said that....but I will keep you posted on how it performs in the snow.
Girls, you need this - go to SheWee's website http://www.shewee.com/ or email me for the contact. 

A hot end to the summer trekking season

Mont Blanc

It's been a hot and sweaty week on the Tour of Mont Blanc trail. The media warned us the "canicule" was coming and we should keep old people and pets hydrated. Last weekend saw the temps soar to well over 35°C in the valleys, obviously considerably less in the mountains, but nevertheless my fellow hikers were seeking out the shade.
But what luck to have such amazing weather! We were never cold and could sit out in the evenings watching then sun go down. Our sacs were light as we had no need to carry lots of extra layers.

Herens cow at the Col des Posettes

Getting close to the Grand Col Ferret and the Swiss Italian frontier

Clearly we had to carry more water but not a ridiculous amount. My group coped really well and were rather spoilt by great views from the start.

Storms were forecast from mid week but somehow we managed to always miss them and only had real rain overnight a couple of times. However we did hurry along a few times when black clouds cloaked and thunder rumbled down the hillsides!

Storms clouds over the Mont Blanc massif

Admiring the view from the Val Veny

Conditions were probably better where we were than in the high mountains. With a freezing level at 4600m the glaciers have become very open and icy, and there have been reports of considerable rockfall on certain slopes and gullies. Also the threat of storms will have stopped play these last few days.
All that is about to change with snow forecast this weekend at 2000m - I had to scrape ice off the car windscreen this morning!

Mont Dolent from the Grand Col Ferret

Monte Bianco

Taking it all in above Refuge Bertone

Onwards and downwards!

This marks the end of my summer trekking season - somewhat earlier than usual but everyone needs a break sometimes. Trekking in the Alps is heading off on holiday for a few weeks - time to hang up the boots and lie on the beach (in my dreams anyway!)
However, don't panic, the winter and spring programme 2013 is already up and bookings are coming in. Go to this link: http://www.trekkinginthealps.com/calendar.htm